Sri's Musings from Bangalore

Sent to friends: Aug 5th 2005

…reminded us a lot about Oregon actually! Especially the rugged beach at Gris Gris (pronounced just Gri-Gri with the silent “s”). It’s rocky, like Cannon beach. The waves are roaring unlike the rest of the island and we saw signs saying “Dangerous to Swim” (in French and English). We stopped by very briefly en-route to the Airport, on our way back home to Bangalore…

Dear friends,

…It feels strange to call Bangalore our home now, as we still have a very strong affinity to Portland which has been my “home” for the past 16 years, my husband’s for the past 20 years, our daughter’s for the past 11 years (92% of her life!) and my mothers for the past 13 years (on and off as she was also in Philadelphia (PA) and Palo Alto (CA) during those years). So, it’s hard NOT to compare anyplace we visit to Portland and to Oregon - the oceans, the mountains, the forests and vast outdoors over there J

May flowers were full bloom in Bangalore (in the month of May of course). For a moment I wondered why the same trees were bare in Mauritius and soon realized that we are just on the other side of the Equator – closer to that imaginary 23 ½ deg latitude line – the Tropic of Capricorn. Port Louis the capital of Mauritius is located at 20.10S 57.30E; Bangalore’s co-ordinates are: Latitude: 12 deg, 8 min N; Longitude: 77 deg 37 min E. Thinking about it, this was my first visit to any place in the Southern Hemisphere. Some of you travelers to perhaps Australia, New Zealand or Africa may have found it strange to be celebrating Christmas in summer (there) if you happened to travel during winter in USA. No May flowers in the month of May anywhere did seem strange though!

I’ll get back to the description of Gris-Gris and Souillac, the quiet little village/town it’s in (as I read, much later, in the in-flight “Islander” magazine – yes I took that complementary copy home), after describing our week-long stay in the tiny island.

…. Yes, it’ TINY – 45 km in width and 65 km in length, just a dot in the Indian Ocean as seen in navigation map on the flight as one takes off and rises to a considerable height. The Indian peninsular is a HUGE landmass in comparison.

…. But, it’s people seemed very LARGE hearted, are very warm, friendly, speak French (Creole actually) are vibrant and yet very laid back.

By now, you might have had a chance to view some pictures I sent you in a separate mail. Those were photos we took. We stayed at a hotel called La Plantation located in the NW part of the island – adjoining the Indian Ocean of course. It’s rated 4-Star. Here are some pictures from the web of “La Plantation – very nice hotel” - found on the web, taken by another tourist. http://www.benoa.net/mauritius/seaside/index.html
The weblink also has a panoramic view of Port Louis – the capital. Another link with info. about La Plantation is:
http://www.mauritius-seychelles.com/la-plantation-hotel-mauritius.html

For those of you that might not already know, Mauritius is a tropical island, located to the west of Madagascar close to South Africa, close to the Tropic of Capricorn (I provided exact co-ordinates earlier).

It was a very comfortable 5 hour journey on Mauritian Airways from Chennai, India, ignoring the unearthly departure time (3 am!!). We slept well and got down refreshed, swept through immigration in a matter of minutes amidst almost zero security scrutiny. A small little airport it was, filled with colorful walls (painted pictures of tropical flowers, plants and birds), with a view of the beautiful ocean and green fields. There is only one flight from Chennai to Mauritius and back each week. Daily flights operate from Mumbai and New Delhi I heard.

Our hotel had arranged pickup for us and we met them as arranged apriori. We had to wait for another party to join us on the shuttle. We took the time to get some cash exchanged and got Mauritian rupees (approx.1.5 Indian rupees gets us a Mauritian rupee). It was clear blue skies when we landed. Minutes later we saw some drizzle and then a heavy downpour! But, by the time we were ready to leave, the rain clouds had passed and it became a slight drizzle, reminding us once again of Oregon! This type of weather is quite typical of the tropics, I believe. Well, the only other people in the shuttle to our hotel was a couple, newly weds we guessed, on their honeymoon (confirmed the next day on our tour of the island that they also joined us on)

Sugarcane fields…thick, luscious and acres and acres of them. One can get lost in the fields – won’t know a way to get out. Same in South Africa we heard from a couple of tourists who joined us on one day of the bus tour – interesting gregarious adventurous youngsters. Did not get their contact info. or pictures even. One of those experiences that remains fondly in your minds eye. Even forgot their names – they were 2 cousin brothers – on a tour of the island; Riding public transport and experiencing the country like the locals. They told us about this huge bread they eat in South Africa – Bunny chow??
(http://www.congocookbook.com/c0192.html Yes. Bunny Chow. It's not food for rabbits. It's not made from rabbits. Bunny Chow is the result of an only-in-South-Africa combination of Asian curry, European bread, and South African apartheid). Sounded like the round sour dough bread of San Francisco with cream of broccoli soup poured in the hole made in the middle of the bread!

….

Many of you who have been to Hawaii will be reminded of that beautiful land when you visit this small isle on the Indian Ocean.

Lots of activities here in the shallow clear warm waters around Mauritius and it’s very soft powdery white sandy beaches. I actually brought back a bag of sand as a memento! Most all activities are centered around the sea, water and sand. Para sailing, undersea walking, snorkeling, submarine rides (these rides are very expensive ~$100 per person!), ride on the tube board (we even saw one on shaped like a banana – tiny kids splashing water and riding it close to the shore!).

As visitors on vacation, all we did was wake up, get ready by 8 am, have a sumptuous all-u-can-eat buffet breakfast at the hotel and head out site-seeing. Then back late evening, rest a bit, dinner at La Plantation (buffet again – various multi-cuisine themes – from African, to Indian to French and Italian) and retire for the night. This, we did for 6 days in a row… 3 days on a guided tour organized by the hotel (paid for as part of boarding and lodging) and 3 days on a rental car we arranged ourselves (costs about 1000 Mauritian Rupees for a full-day 6-8 hours hire)

On the first day we went to the most beautiful beach – “Ile aux cerfs” (pronounced Isle O Surfs) in the eastern part of the island. It takes 3 hours to walk around the small island, they say. We did not have our video or still (digital) camera as they had drained batteries, our adapter to convert from 110V to 220V would not work (because the pin is non-standard and the Indian adaptor does not work in Mauritius). So, memories of Ile aux cerfs will remain in our mind’s eye (except for 1-2 pics that our fellow traveller’s took and sent to us). The white sandy beaches in this small isle is powdery soft and the waters are warm & crystal clear. See description/maps/pictures of this place at:
http://www.intnet.mu/iels/ileauxcerfs.htm, http://www.mauritius.org.uk/ILE%20AUX%20CERFS.htm
http://community.webshots.com/photo/16207537/16208345PYpCmlrAiy - here there is a view I remember. There is a link on this page which shows a “taste of Mauritius” which is: http://community.webshots.com/album/16207537QqVmVrNaMz. Beautiful pictures indeed!

The second day was a tour of the famous SSR (Sri Seewoosagur Ramgoolam – one of their popular past Presidents) Botanical garden in place called Pamplemousse. It’s a place known to naturalists throughout the world for their large collection of indigenous and exotic plants, including the giant Victoria Amazonica water lilies (was in the pictures I sent you) – a baby can sleep on one leaf! There are many species of palm trees. The 60-acre garden boasts of 500 different species of plants, of which 80 are palms. One palm, called the Talipot palm, is said to flower every 60 years after which they die. There are many pictures of the trees in that park you will find on the web (also in the links I have provided towards the end of this writeup)

The coloured sands of Cameral was a beautiful site. I had sent you some pictures of our visit there and weblinks I have given here show photos of this place too. It reminded us of the Painted hills of Eastern Oregon which is one of natures wonders and much more massive that the Cameral sands. We also visited an extinct volcana – Jwala Mukhi. My first set of pictures had a couple of photos of this place. They took us up to the crater which is covered with thick vegetation now. Crater L:ake in Oregon is much more massive in comparison. The water falls on our way to Camarel, also reminded us of Multnomah falls, but this one had a steeper drop and was much less accessible.

On one of the 3 day hotel bus tour, they took us to a model ship building factory located in Curepipe, in the center of the island. Models here are made from original designs. They are intricate, completely hand-made and each is a work of art. See:
http://mauritius.voyaz.com/maquettes-bateaux/homepage-ship.htm
We ended up buying a ship (don’t remember the name now). It was one that sunk close to the Northern coast of Mauritius – a trade ship. It’s still inside the “fragile” pkg. we got it back in. One day it will occupy a place in a nice glass case in our living room when we finally settle down and get rid of all the stuff from our move, still in cardboard boxes.

One day, we took a ride on a glass-bottomed boat. These boats operate from the bay just behind our hotel and was free with hotel stay. It was an hour-long journey just a little into the sea. The ocean bed was full of varieties of corals and small sea animals – sea horses colorful fishes. Not quite as colorful as shown in the film “Finding Nemo”… but a thrill never-the-less. The ride itself was very pleasant, with a cool breeze blowing and the site of sailboats and other steam boats afloat on the sea-green waters was quite something to keep in our minds eye.

As I told you before, we went off on our own for 3 days – renting a taxi. The driver’s name was Sajan. He was third generation Indian. His great grand father had come here to work on the sugarcane fields, he said. He told us the story, we had heard before. That they were told to lift stones, clear the land, day in and day out. That they would find gold if they did. Finally, they had cleared the land for sugarcane fields. Sajan spoke Hindi with us. He spoke Bhojpuri at home, he said. And most of his children and grandchildren spoke fluent Creole but understood Bhojpuri quite well he told us. They teach Hindi, French and Tamil in schools now-a-days he said.

Another day, we visited La Vanille Crocodile Park at Souillac in the south, where there were all manner of reptiles – crocodile, tortoises and fish and other strange creatures, as well as a breathtaking butterfly collection. We took a few pictures of the framed butterfly and insect collection which I will send you in the second installment our Mauritius photos. I was looking for a picture on the web but could not locate it. It’s so wondrous, would inspire one to become an entomologist.

During the short while we were in the hotel room, aside from sleeping we watched some TV. Most all shows are in French. There was one channel though that showed Hindi movies and covered a lot of the Indian activities around town. A group of Maharastrians in Mauritius celebrated Shivaji Day. And it was sort of odd to see them sing the song “Maharathra ki Jai”. One group holding the Indian flag and another, a Mauritian Flag. It must be remembered that persons of Indian origin in Mauritius go back 3-4 generations or more. So, when these people emigrated, Shivaji must have been an erstwhile ruler?

Port Louis is the capital of Mauritius and we visited it twice. It’s a nice city, with malls, waterfront and boardwalks. We had a quick lunch at McDonald’s there. Street names were mostly in honor of leaders – Sir Seewosagar Ramgoolam (instrumental in the independence of the island I think – there is a statue of him in Port Louis too). Other street names are: President Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth, Louise Pasteur. Somehow, this capital city reminded us of downtown Portland (fewer high raises here though) and Pioneer courthouse Square.

There are many Hindu temples in Mauritius. Big and small – in the city interior, on the outskirts, and on the hills. Sagar Shiv Mandir is a popular one. There are many churches and mosques too. We took lots of pictures of the Shiva temple we visited – it’s the largest one in the island. I had shared some of those pictures with you earlier.

The city itself is very much like India - small narrow streets that seems to have been built without much planning, houses which lack much aesthetics, corner grocery and convenience shops…

It’s a pure tourist destination and hotels abound - Le Prince Maurice, The Oberoi (5 star – Rs. 50,000/day, they say – over a $1000/day), Le Grand Blue, Le Meridian, La Plantation, Meridian… and so many more…Food is expensive (for tourists), locals will know where the best places with good prices will be. Drinking water is especially costly and price varies anywhere between Mauritian Rs. 60 (at the hotel) to Rs. 7 (at local roadside shops). Textiles are in plenty, but not cheap – at least at the factory outlets that they took us tourists to.

So many things we saw, so much was experienced, so much was learnt:
- Dodo bird got extinct here (and we got lots of refrigerator magnets of the Dodo bird!), lots of extinct tortoises (due to poaching to extract oil!!) and crocodiles and alligators too have become extinct here
- Indians speaking fluent French (Creole actually), wearing traditional Indian clothes - saris and salwars and ghagaras and dhotis.
- Lots of honeymooners and travelers from India and Europe esp. France, Spain, Holland & Italy, and from South Africa (of Indian origin). One newly married couple from Johanesburg we met at the airport, spoke Tamil and said they visited the Sai Baba temple in the island too. We met 3 honeymooners from India, a leather merchant/industrialist and his family from Chennai who stayed in our hotel. They later went to Dubai for shopping too before coming back home to Chennai.
- Small coastal towns and villages, central plains, sugarcane fields and old sugar mills.

There is an IT/Cyber City in Mauritius too. But all it is, is 3 big buildings. I think most of the business is BPO related, but the IT sector is growing there I hear.

Couple of days we went to the groceries, to the HUGE outlets just like they have in the US. There was “Jumbo” store which reminded of “Winco foods”, even the labeling was similar. Another store was “ShopRite” and one more was called “Super U”. We picked up some juices and cheese and chips! We got much of our favourite chocolates (Merci, tobblerone, truffles, fruit roll-ups?! …) and gifts to give away at the airport duty free shops. We also bought a CD about Mauritius for our collection at the airport.

Coming back to the beach at Gris-Gris and the little village it is in – Souillac, as I read in the in-flight magazine ….. “Souillac is tucked away at the far end of the island almost off the map, is somewhat different from other village. But it’s cliffs and greenery, its history and its tranquility, give it a real Indian ocean flavour”.

And a beautiful description at the start of the article about the village …

“It’s raining in Souillac, a tropical downpour such as occurs only in summer. The rain streams down the slopes, along the paths of the Telfair garden, towards the sea. Palms and the huge local beamier trees quiver with pleasure as the rain caresses their leaves and branches. Bombarded with spray and drenched with rain, the beach at Gris Gris is hardly recognizable. But, in such circumstances, the name is appropriate. A little further along the coast, the weeping rock, sheds enormous tears onto a foaming sea. The burst of rain shows one side of Souillac. This small southern village can resemble Britany, with its cliffs beaten by the ocean and lashed by the wind straight off the open sea. But fine weather returns, as always happens in the tropics. The clouds carry on their way, leaving behind them blazing sunshine. Souillac returns to normal. The country here is lush and colorful, greener and warmer perhaps than elsewhere…..”

….

Overall , a very expensive trip – affordable if you earn in USD and Euros; Not quite for those earning in Indian rupees like we do now. Airfare is Rs. 20,000 (Indian rupees) per person from Chennai to Mauritius and back (Approx $500). Hotel rent is $250 per night (for double bed – they can accommodate an extra bed for 1 child in this large room). So, for a week long stay for 3, it will cost $3000 for air fare and hotel from Chennai, India. Food and bottled water is expensive. Entrance fees to places, charges for recreation activities will add rapidly to the cost. Gifts and mementos are even more expensive. So, a holiday for 3 will not be less than $5000 (USD). This is traveling from India. Of course from the US will be even more as the air-fare must be higher.

It’s Multi-culturalism at it’s peak, among these diverse set of people (of Dutch, French, English, African and Indian descent) who live harmoniously. At first thought, one would see great opportunities here - great weather, many cultures and languages spoken, lots of young people – much can be done. (BPO – French call center? IT?). Visiting from America or India, one might want to become entrepreneurs and change this laidback landscape. One might see great opportunities and profit. One may have an urge to change these folks – make them vibrant…But…

… Upon further reflection one could come to the understanding that there needs to be such places on this earth; Places to come to, to really un-wind and be forced to slow down. Why would anyone want to change it? No rush for anything here it seems. They too lead high quality lives and are as busy as they want to be. They are happy too (emphasize what you wish in this last sentence)

Here are some more web-links….
Places of interest throughout the island: http://www.mauritius.net/
Nice stats about the isle: http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/mp.html
The Univ. of Mauritius (we did not visit – just passed by): http://www.uom.ac.mu/
And many photos of most places of interest in Mauritius - http://m.jourdan974.free.fr/maurice/page_01.htm
Top 20 places to visit, as sited by someone: http://www.mauritius.org.uk/Places%20to%20visit.htm

Summing up… (Captions from a magazine article)…
Mauritius is … Paradies Regained….Nature’s Unique Gift…..Mauritius is Nature….An Idylic Holiday….Spas & well Being….Beaches & Beaches and Beaches….Blend of Cultures; Sega Music & Dance….Honeymoon in Mauritius is special….Golf on Mauritian Greens is popular….Food, Food & more food…..there are many Secrets of the Sea World here.

A warm place to go, to cool down.


-Sri